Jalapeño-Dark Chocolate Ice Cream, White Chocolate Sauce, Candied Pecans

No matter what you are thinking right now, this is a dish that will knock your socks off!

The marriage of chiles to chocolate goes all the way back to the ancient Mayans and survives in Central American and Southern Mexican cooking to this day in classic dishes such as Oaxacan Mole Negro.

One summer my oldest daughter, Camille, worked for chef Janos Wilder, Beard award winner and owner of Janos' Restaurant and J-Bar--4 star and 4 diamond establishments. The following recipe is Janos'.

We first made this one Sunday afternoon while watching the movie, Chocolat--a perfect pairing of food and movie!

I dare you to make this one. ;-)

Dale

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DARK CHOCOLATE—JALAPEÑO ICE CREAM SUNDAE

Serves 10-12

“Chocolate truffle meets jalapeño chile” is an apt description of this addictive frozen confection, which delivers double the chocolate as the sauce is chocolate, too. Note that the eggs in this recipe do not get cooked, so if you are concerned about salmonella, be sure of your egg source—or substitute Caliente Chocolate Ice Cream (see page 169).

INGREDIENTS

Dark Chocolate—Jalapeño Ice Cream
3 cups half-and-half
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and julienned
10 ounces bitter sweet chocolate, finely chopped
3 eggs
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup pecans, toasted

White Chocolate Sauce
1/2 cup heavy cream
8 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped

Candied Pecans
1 1/2 cups water
1 1/2 cups plus 1/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 cups pecan pieces

Do Ahead: The white chocolate sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead, covered, and refrigerated. Rewarm the sauce in a double boiler before serving. The candied pecans can be made up to 1 week ahead.

For the ice cream: In a saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the half-and-half and jalapeño to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Let sit for 1 or 2 minutes and then stir until the chocolate is melted and incorporated into the half-and-half. Let cool and refrigerate overnight.

Strain the half-and-half mixture and discard the jalapeño. In a large bowl with an electric mixer, beat the eggs and sugar at medium speed until fluffy and light in color. Turn the mixer to low and mix in the chocolate mixture, cream, and pecans. Transfer to an ice cream freezer and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions.

For the white chocolate sauce: In a small pan over medium heat, bring the cream to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the white chocolate. Allow to sit 1 or 2 minutes and then stir until the chocolate is completely melted.

For the candied pecans: In a saucepan over high heat, combine the water and 1 1/2 cups of the sugar and bring to a boil; boil for 2 minutes, or until the sugar is dissolved. Add the pecan pieces and boil for 2 minutes more. Drain the pecans well. Place the remaining 1/3 cup sugar in a bowl and add the warm pecans. Toss well, coating evenly, and spread them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Allow to dry about 2 hours; use immediately or store in an airtight container for up to a week.

Assembly: Place 2 scoops of ice cream in each bowl. Drizzle the white chocolate sauce and sprinkle candied pecans on top.


Recipe from Janos Wilder, owner chef of four star Janos’ Restaurant in Tucson, AZ.

Fenzl, Barbara Pool (with Jane Horn). 1999. Savor The Southwest. San Francisco: Bay Books, p. 173.

Crema

Crema (Crème Fraîche)


2 cups heavy cream (preferably not ultrapasteurized)
3 tbs. cultured buttermilk or plain yogurt (with active cultures)


Combine the cream and yogurt and let it stand, loosely covered, at room temperature for 12 hours. The cream will thicken and become acidic. Cover it and refrigerate it until you are ready to use it.

The crema will thicken further and will easily keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator. Unlike sour cream, crema can be boiled, and unlike sour cream, crema softens and melts when used in baking.

Enchilada Suizas

By request, I'm posting my recipe for Enchiladas Suizas. These have been a favorite of my children and guests for several years.

If I'm not mistaken, this style of enchilada first appeared (commercially, at least) at Sanborn's restaurant in Mexico City.

The tomatillo sauce is tart, and acidic, and pairs wonderfully with the Monterrey Jack cheese and crema, a cultured cream often used in Mexican cooking. Unlike sour cream which clumps when baked, crema melts into the dish, wedding itself to the other ingredients.

After posting this recipe, I will post instructions for making the crema.

In this recipe, I recommend using Herdez Salsa Verde for convenience. When time permits, I DO make my own salsa for the dish from fresh ingredients. I will post my recipe for that later, as well.

In the meantime, for your culinary delight...

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Enchiladas Suizas

4 cups shredded chicken
1 lb. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded
16 oz. jar Salsa Verde (tomatillo and green chile sauce—Herdez is my favorite), extra salsa is a plus
1 cup minced onion
12 - 6 in. corn tortillas
1 pint crema

2 cups shredded Romaine lettuce for garnish


In a skillet, warm about 1/2 inch vegetable oil over medium heat. Using tongs, immerse the tortillas one at a time in the oil, turn them, and transfer them to absorbent paper. The tortillas should be in the oil no more than a few seconds, and the oil should be hot enough to soften the tortillas but not so hot that the edges begin to crisp.

Spread some of the tomatillo sauce in the bottom of a large shallow baking dish. A standard 9 X 13 inch baking dish is a tight fit for 12 rolled and filled enchiladas. Or you can make the enchiladas on 4 individual oven proof serving dishes.

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Warm some of the salsa in another skillet. Using the tongs, dip a tortilla into the tomatillo sauce, then lay the tortilla on a plate. Spread about 1/3 cup of the shredded chicken across the lower third of the tortilla. Season the meat lightly with salt, sprinkle some of the minced onion on the meat, and top it with some of the grated cheese. Roll the enchilada and lay it, seam side down, in the baking dish. Repeat with the remaining tortillas, chicken, etc., leaving about a cup of the cheese. Spread the remaining tomatillo salsa over the enchiladas. Sprinkle the remaining grated cheese over the enchiladas, and drizzle the crema over them.

Bake for about 20 minutes, or until the enchiladas are heated through, the cheese is melted, and the sauce is bubbling. With a wide spatula, transfer the enchiladas from the large baking dish to heated plates and serve immediately.

When serving these as a pre-plated meal, I assemble the enchiladas right on individual oven-proof plates and pop them in the oven. Then the other sides and garnishes are added after they come from the oven.

Mexican Fried Rice to go with the Carnitas

One of my daughters' favorite accompaniments to the Carnitas a la Casera posted below is Mexican Fried Rice. The recipe here is from Maria Villalobos, dear friend, Zapoteca from Juchitan, Oaxaca, and a wonderful cook. Maria makes my absolute favorite Mole Negro--the traditional black mole of Oaxaca.

Her cookbook listed below also has the only recipe for whole armadillo baked in it's shell that I've ever seen. Now if I could just find a fresh armadillo...

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Mexican Fried Rice


Yield: 6—8

1 cup rice
1 small onion, chopped
1 tomato, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
½ cup peas
½ cup carrots, finely chopped
3 cups hot water, chicken broth, or pork stock

1. Slightly cook the peas and carrots in water, drain and set aside.
   
2. In a Mexican pottery cazuela, electric frying pan, or other heavy container, heat ¼ cup oil. Stir in the rice. Continue to stir the rice until it is slightly yellow and gives off a hollow sound as it is stirred.
   
3. Stir in the tomato, onion, and garlic, and fry well stirring occasionally (about 5 minutes).
   
4. Add the liquid, carrots, peas, and 1 ½ teaspoon of salt. Stir well, and do not stir again until the dish is done.
   
5. Cook until no liquid can be seen when the rice is parted in the middle.
   
6. Test the rice for doneness. If the liquid has disappeared, and the rice on top is not soft, sprinkle ¼ cup hot liquid over the top and continue to cook.

Adapted from: Villalobos, Maria. 1985. Maria’s Culinary Secrets: Zapotec Cookery from Southern Mexico. Page 13.

Carnitas a la Casera: I

This recipe's posted for my friend and co-worker, Kira.

Kira and family were at the house one night for a party. Kira let me know she didn't eat meat other than chicken. Unfortunately, the meal was built around two styles of carnitas, a savory pork, which is eaten with tortillas and Mexican side dishes such as guacamole, refried black beans, mexican fried rice, etc.

Not too long afterwards, Kira let me know that both she and her daughter wanted the recipe! LOL...

The recipe I've used for many years for basic carnitas is posted here. In a future post, I'll put up the really special style that comprised the second carnitas offered that night.

The carnitas prepared this way are very savory, versatile, and may be frozen with some of the liquid for storage.

Note: I usually do this to a pork butt or shoulder of around 4 lbs. rather than the two in Hansen's original recipe.

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Carnitas a la Casera


Yield: About 4 cups of shredded meat

2 lbs. Pork butt
½ medium onion, cut in half
1 large garlic clove
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
Salt or garlic salt


1. Place meat in a 3-quart saucepan. Add water to cover, onion, garlic, salt, oregano, and
cumin. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 2 hours.

2. Preheat oven to 350F (175C). Drain meat, reserving broth for another use. Place meat
in a baking pan. Sprinkle meat evenly with salt or garlic salt. Bake 45 minutes. Remove
from oven.

3. While still warm, use 2 forks to shred meat.

Hansen, Barbara. 1980. Mexican Cookery. NY: Dell Publishing Co., Inc., pp. 225-26.

Johanna's Chipotle Potato Salad

This smoky zesty dish is named for one of my middle daughter, Carissa’s, best friends from Canyon Del Oro High School in Tucson, AZ, Johanna Ingram. She was at our house one morning as I was experimenting with adapting my chipotle pasta salad to a potato salad recipe. Johanna loved the result so much that she asked me to provide it for her high school graduation party. So, it bears her name.

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Johanna’s Chipotle Potato Salad


3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
3/8 cup red wine vinegar
1 tsp. salt
¼ tsp. coarse black pepper
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 tsp. minced garlic (two large cloves)
2 chipotle peppers (with a little of the adobo sauce if desired)

3-4 pounds potatoes for salad
1 1/2 cup grated parmiggiano reggiano, asiago, or romano cheese (or other similar cheeses)
5 sun dried tomatoes
2-3 oz. fresh spinach (preferably baby spinach), stemmed
1 small to medium red onion, finely diced


Cover the whole potatoes with cool water. Bring to a boil and lower to a simmer until a fork easily pierces them, about 20-30 minutes. Drain the potatoes and let them cool until you can peel them and cube them into approximately 1inch cubes. It’s best to do this job when the potatoes are still so hot you can barely handle them. When warm, the potatoes will absorb more of the dressing and thus the flavor.

While the potatoes are cooking, combine the olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt, coarse black pepper, Dijon mustard, garlic, and chipotle peppers in a blender and puree into a smooth dressing.

When the potatoes are cubed, fold 1/2 to 2/3 of the dressing into the potatoes while they are still warm and let stand for 15 minutes. Cut the sundried tomatoes in half lengthwise, stack and julienne. Roll the spinach and cut into a chiffonade. Chop the strands roughly into thirds. Sprinkle the red onions, sun dried tomatoes, spinach, and cheese over the top of the potatoes. Pour the rest of the dressing over everything. Squeeze the lime juice over that and mix thoroughly. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Dale Savage May 2003

Mediterranean Pasta Salad

Over the years, I've developed or personalized many recipes. In fact, I've usually tried to develop at least one "thematic" recipe from the various places where I've lived over the years. Sometimes, that's meant that I merely found an excellent regional recipe and added it to my repertoire, but more often it meant that I started with something typical of a region and developed my own version.

The pasta salad recipe that follows is one of the all time "winners." I started with a pasta salad recipe from Jane Peterson's Anything but Plain Jane Cookbook. (Jane, a local librarian in the Tucson area, grew up in a catering family on the east coast. Her self-published cookbook has many excellent recipes from her catering background.) Starting with Jane's basic recipe, I punched up the flavors in several areas, and then I took the dressing in a whole new Southwestern direction with Chipotle peppers and fresh limes.

What follows is a recipe my daughters won't let me leave behind. I also developed a potato salad based on a modified version of the pasta salad dressing. I intend to publish that in another posting.

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Mediterranean Pasta Salad

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
3/8 cup red wine vinegar
1 tsp. salt
¼ tsp. coarse black pepper
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 tsp. minced garlic (two large cloves)
2 chipotle peppers (with a little of the adobo sauce if desired)
1 lb. medium pasta shells
Salt for pasta water
1 cup sliced black olives (or whole, pitted black olives, quartered)
5 or 6 sun dried tomatoes, soaked in water if necessary, blotted dry & cut into thin strips
3 or 4 Roma tomatoes, chopped
1 1/2 cups coarsely grated asiago cheese (or combination of asiago and freshly grated parmiggiano regianno)
5-6 oz. bag of fresh spinach, cleaned, stems removed and cut into chiffonade (baby spinach if available)
2 or 3 fresh limes


Combine oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard, garlic, chipotles, and the juice of one lime in blender. Puree.

Cook pasta in salted water. Add to bowl with dressing and toss, adding sun dried tomatoes and olive slices. Let cool about 10 minutes. Add cheese. Toss well and let cool 10 minutes longer before adding fresh tomatoes and spinach. Add salt and coarse ground black pepper to taste. Cut the remaining limes into sections and serve on the side so people can accent their individual servings with lime.

This makes about 4 pounds or 16 side-dish servings.

Options:

-- To serve as a main dish, add one or two chicken breast halves, grilled or baked in a 350° F. oven for 25 minutes, cut into small cubes or strips.

-- Add other ingredients to taste such as diced avocado, diced red onion, toasted seeds and nuts, etc.

Food, wine, coffee, and everything for the gastronome

Well... at long last, this food, wine, coffee, etc. blog begins!

This area has the potential to become my largest blog. I intend to post recipes here, write about food, wine, and coffee, and just generally have a good time with this area of my blog.

I know for sure that I intend to post on what goes into brewing a great cup of coffee. I'm also planning posts on how to steam milk for a great latte--mostly about how to build structure by causing the protein strands in the milk to slip rather than just introducing air bubbles into the milk. I'll also talk about various brewing methods, and about how coffee tasting like wine tasting can build an appreciation for great coffees from around the world. If I can find them somewhere in my boxes, I might even include photos of visits to coffee plantations in Mexico and Papua New Guinea and to the Hershey cacao plantation in Belize.

But the first post will be one of my recipes that people are constantly asking me for...